Since there are no gun shows to speak of right now, and having nothing better to do…
I have put my online sales for the Belts back online! Click Here to order a belt!
I will add in some more to this shortly, but for now, there it is.
Since there are no gun shows to speak of right now, and having nothing better to do…
I have put my online sales for the Belts back online! Click Here to order a belt!
I will add in some more to this shortly, but for now, there it is.
This is a video that I made along with my daughter Morgan, giving you a basic demonstration of the Packin’ Tee system:
The Packin’ Tee represents the next generation of concealed carry t-shirt.
One of the first things that you notice when you examine one, is that the holster is modular and attached with industrial strength hook and loop material (Velcro).
There are reinforcements around the side of the shirt, over the shoulder and around the arm holes, and across the back. Basically, the manufacturer made a cloth shoulder holster, and then sewed it into the inside of the shirt.
The shirt itself is 100% cotton, pre-shrunk. This means that it’s not only comfortable and easy to clean, but it “looks normal”. There are a number of concealed carry t-shirts out there that have rather “distinctive” looks to them, looks that can give you away to people who know what to look for.
One of the best features of this holster system is the modular holsters themselves. You can easily switch out between the various holsters to customize your carry to what you need to do. You can move the holster up, down, sideways, or just give it a small cant forward or backward, whatever it takes to give you that sweet spot for carry comfort that makes all the difference in the world in whether or not a holster system works for you.
All of the mens style shirts are sleeveless. The womens’ shirts have small cap sleeves on them.
All shirts are in both Black and white.
The manufacturer rates these shirts as being useful for guns up to 10 pounds in weight.
That’s a bit more detailed of a question. A concealed carry gun that is too small to work with this would be one of the NAA mini revolvers. A gun that’s too large would be the larger N-Frames and other super sized revolvers. Things in between those two extremes tend to work with the Packin’ Tee.
Official answer: Remove the holster patches before washing, then just wash them as you would do your regular t-shirts.
Unofficial answer: You can wash and dry them with the patches in place. Once you do this, the patches (which are made out of industrial strength velcro) will NOT easily remove from the shirt. They will work just fine, but be sure that you have the patches “where you want them” before doing this. You may not be able to adjust them afterwards.
This is a piece of clothing, and underwear at that. Given that, it’s not going to last forever. The manufacturer has estimated that you should be able to get two years out of them under normal use.
I’ve been using these for several years. I’ve never seen one actually fail. They do eventually get old, and most people replace them rather than wear a several year old shirt.
Only if you feel the need to conceal the weapon. Seriously, pretty much every method of concealment depends at least in part on “cover garments”. This one is no different.
Snug is good. Tourniquet is bad.
Previous designs of shirts needed a good amount of “tight fit” to keep the weapon in the place. Because of the reinforcement built into this shirt, it doesn’t need to be worn as tightly as other similar products, but you do not want to wear it loose, either. Wearing it loosely will cause the weapon to sag, hang lower than normal, and bounce off your ribcage in a most annoying manner. Wearing the shirt snug is a good idea.
If you wear an XL, then get an XL sized Packin’ Tee. There is no need to guesstimate down the size with this shirt. These were built from the ground up as concealment shirts, and they were built knowing that they needed to be snug. So, if you normally wear, say, and XL for comfort, then pick up an XL here as well, and it will fit on you snugly.
If, for example, you wear both XL and 2X depending on the cut, then you should probably get a 2X Packin’ Tee. Remember, these are built to be snug, and if you get a size too small, it’s really going to be a size too small!
Being in the midwest, I get this question a lot. The answer is that it’s no hotter than any other 100 percent cotton t-shirt. If you can live with a t-shirt on, this will be no different to you.
Well, I can’t answer to the rust resistance of your gun, but I can tell you this: One of the reinforcement layers that makes this shirt so suited for this job, is a thin layer of plastic that helps keeps any moisture from getting from you to your gun.
The Packin’ Tee is a cross draw style holster, traditionally one of the easiest draw motions there is. If you have a button down shirt, just reach inside and grab the weapon. If you have a non-button down (pullover) type shirt, just grab the shirt bottom nearest the gun, and pull the shirt over the top of the weapon, then go ahead and grab your gun.
Yes and sort of. Yes, in that they currently come in 2x, 3x, and 4x shirts. There are no specific “tall” versions, but these shirts were made longer than most concealment shirts, and as a result, most people will find the length to be fine. The larger the shirt, the longer they are.
One of the really nice things about this design is that you can easily configure it to whatever you need to go. It comes standard with both left and right mountings. Possible setups include:
One gun, no other rigging
Two guns, no other rigging
One gun, plus magazine carrier
One gun, plus hidden pocket
Bear in mind that you can buy the equipment to run any and all of these options, but you can only run the above options at any given time. The mag carrier takes the place of the second gun, for example.
There are currently two, “large” and “small”. To make life easier for everyone involved, I’m selling these holsters as a set, so no matter what holster you need, you will be set to go. To determine which one you need for your particular gun, just try them out and see which one fits better.
Back to Holster Types
Don Hume Leather Holsters have been around on the market for a good 40 years plus. Based in Miami Oklahoma, they have been producing a number of styles popular in the concealed carry community. I have been carrying some of their models at the gun shows for quite some time now.
The JIT is an “outside the waistband” (OWB) holster intended for the 3:00 to 4:00 position, or 9:00 to 8:00 if you are left handed.
There is no “cant” to this gun, in that it’s built to keep the gun straight up and down.
The pistol rides “high” in this holster compared to some. The center of gravity will be on the beltline, with the pistol grip above the center of gravity. This design puts the gun overall higher than some. This makes it a bit easier to hide than lower hanging holsters.
If you are wanting your gun to be straight up and down, and on or near the hip, the JIT holster is a good option.
The H710 First Agent OWB (Outside the Waistband) holster is comparable to the JIT style holster. The main difference is that it has a 15 degree forward cant rather than being straight up and down.
Because of this, it’s primary position should be on or behind the hip. Think 3:00 to 5:00 for right handed people, and 9:00 to 7:00 for left handed.
Placing this holster in front of the hips can be done. I don’t recommend it, though. It creates a rather awkward draw stroke.
This is the most typical of the Humes leather line of Inside the Waistband holsters. It’s a design that features the “mouth reinforcement” that allows easier one-handed reholstering of the gun. It’s secured to the carrier with a very strong metal clip. Trust me on this, it’s a very strong clip. A lot of people trying these on at the gun shows have trouble removing it.
These holsters are all molded to specific gun types. Many holsters are “forgiving” on the fits. Molded leather is not one of those types. Double check the fittings on a holster before purchasing it. Make sure that it’s marked for your gun.
The ankle holster that I sell at the gun shows is a fairly basic model, but works well. It comes sized for five basic gun styles. It has an adjustable thumb strap giving it a level of retention against droppage.
One of the most important features of an ankle holster is the calf strap. This goes up to just above the calf muscle, and below the knee. It helps to secure the holster from “wandering downwards”.
An ankle is naturally a “v” shape, pointing down. Wrap something around it, and move it enough, and the item in question will start migrating downwards. This isn’t something you want happening. A calf strap helps to keep this from happening. It shares the weight of the rig. And it puts it in an area that is wider at the “bottom” than the top. Thus making it far harder to move accidentally.
I am personally not a big fan of this type of holster in general, no matter what it’s design. It tends to be a slower draw than other holster designs, and harder to get to in a hurry. However, there are uses for this design, and people for whom it works well.
I’ve talked with people, for example, that drive for a living: Taxis, Ubers, Truck Drivers. They appreciate being able to keep the gun out of the waistline. Given their seated posture, snagging a gun out of a ankle holster isn’t as difficult for them.
The next group of people that find the ankle holster useful, are those that are in need of “deep concealment”. Most people don’t tend to check out your ankles, so this can be a decent way to avoid casual detection when concealed carrying.
One other thing that I can recommend the ankle holster for: It’s good for a secondary gun. If you feel the need for a second gun, an ankle holster usually won’t get in the way of your primary gun.
This type of clip holster is not something that I recommend for concealed carry duty due to it’s overall bulk. This holster can be very difficult to hide. However, a good number of them sell, simply because they are inexpensive, and they fulfill functions that aren’t related to concealed carry.
If you need your gun protected in place, such as in a vehicle, these are fine. If you are headed out back for a little target practice, these are great for that.
Technically, yes, you can use this for Open Carry work. I usually recommend something a bit more secure if you are expecting the possibility of having someone fight you for possession of your gun, though.
This holster does have a retention strap. However, it’s more designed with the idea of preventing accidental drops. Defense against an aggressor is a whole different ball game.
Most Nylon Outside the Waistband Holsters have the same basic features. The ones I work with have a metal clip to attach with. You can move the clip from side to side. This allows for right handed or left handed use.
If you don’t like to use a metal clip, there is a space to pass your belt through for securing it to you.
The thumb break security strap attaches with velcro hook and loop, and can be moved around to suit your needs.
The holsters intended for use with a pistol have a built in magazine pouch for carrying a spare magazine. The ones built for use with a revolver do NOT have this feature.
This should not be your primary concealed carry option. It’s rather difficult to hide. It does make a good non-conceal option for many purposes.
At the gun shows, I carry three sizes of Derringer Holster. These are Nylon with a single clip and an adjustable retention strap.
The construction of this holster allows it to be worn inside the waist or outside the waist. Most people that I’ve sold this to at the shows, choose to wear them outside the waist for comfort. Since they are so small overall, it’s really not that hard to conceal.
The top most holster on the photo is the “small” sized nylon derringer holster. This is a specialty fit for the ultra-small NAA small revolvers. The bottom is open on this, so even the longer barrel models should be fine.
The middle holster, the medium nylon derringer holster, and occasionally the bottom one, fits the more typical Derringer class guns. Note that the exceedingly large ones, such as any of the Bond Arms class guns, will NOT fit in any of these nylon derringer holsters, period.
Some of the guns that fit this holster include:
Ruger LCP (first model, the LCP II has a larger trigger guard)
Kel Tec P32 and P3AT
Beretta Tomcat, Bobcat, 22A
Sig Sauer P238
NAA .32 auto and variants
Seecamp .32 auto
Kahr Arms P380
Smith & Wesson M&P 380 with red laser or no laser. The Green laser model is a bit bulkier.
Kimber Micro Carry .380
If the gun you are looking to holster is within these general sizes, and does not feature an overly large trigger guard, you should be able to use it. Always check manufacturers recommendations when picking a holster.
Retention on these holsters uses a velcro thumb break strap. You will need a butter knife or a tongue depressor to make adjustments.
At the gun shows, for this very popular class of compression style clipless holster, I’ve been carrying Remora Holsters (previously), and currently, the Camille Conceals Grip Hugger holster.
The Clipless Holster style is one of the simplest holster systems I’ve personally seen. Most holster systems rely on a series of one or more clips to attach the holster. The clipless holster does not have any clips at all. The Grip Hugger has an outer shell of very “grippy” material being put until some compression by the inside the waist position and the clothes you are wearing.
At first, this sounds a bit hard to believe. This is why, at the gun shows, I don’t even attempt to tell people how it works. I find out what gun they are looking to conceal, snag an aluminum dummy of said gun, put it in the holster, and let them try it for themselves. Trying is believing.
The outer layer and the edge is a grippy waterproof PVC material. The lining is a Cordura nylon material. The inside layer is 1/8″ closed cell foam.
Put something inside your waistband and pressure is exerted on it. Even if you have a fairly loose waistband, there is some pressure there. This pressure is what the “Grippy waterproof PVC material” uses to keep the holster in place.
Most basic outer clothes I’ve seen work well with this style of holster. What can be fun to wrap your head around, is that a lot of “lighter weight” clothing, such as gym shorts and sweat pants, can work with a clipless holster as well. So long as there is enough compression to keep the pants on your hips, you are probably fine.
There is one material, though, that I’ve found to not work well with this. And that would be Silk. If you commonly wear silk pants, then the Grip Hugger Clipless Inside the Waistband holster, may not be for you.
Luckily, I’ve only seen one person wearing silk out in public, at least at a gun show.
This is not a “one size fits all” item. Because you want the gun to fit in snug, there are actually a number of sizes available, which needs to be specified when getting one of these holsters.
Adding rail mounted devices such as laser sights and tactical lights are an increasingly popular option to many concealed carry guns. With hard molded holsters such as saddle leather, kydex or plastic, the holsters often need to be specifically made for the gun and device combination.
This is not the case with either the Grip Hugger Clipless holsters. There are special fittings to accommodate such options, but they don’t need to be made specific to one gun and one light/laser combo. Make sure to specify what you have when you order, if you aren’t buying at a gun show and can see right then if it works.
Most IWB style holsters are pretty much made for sitting at one particular angle, often referred to as the “cant” of the holster. If the barrel is straight up and down, that would be a “0 degree cant”. If you, as a right handed person, tilted it forward so the back of the slide is point at, say, the 11:00 position, that’s approximately a 15 degree cant.
One of the nice things about the way Clipless holsters work, is that you can pretty much put the cant at whatever angle you like within reason. Do you want a backwards cant to use for cross draw? No problem. Want to use the 15 degree forward cant for the FBI position? There you go.
The Clipless holster is a true ambidextrous holster. The Grip Hugger works for both left handed and right handed people. Put the holster where you need it and at what angle you prefer, and away you go.
Inside the Waistband holsters aren’t typically known for being comfortable. Shove a hard object (a gun) inside another hard object (a typical IWB holster). Now shove that combo between your belt and your body. Now bend around a bit and see how much you like that.
The Grip Hugger is not only far thinner than a typical holster, it’s padded and it bends a little. This makes it easier to put up with when you start moving around.
Many people worry about the damage that a holster will do to their gun. In the past, this was a very serious concern, and we all have seen guns with “hard holster wear” on them over the years.
Modern gun coatings are far, far more tough than their yesteryear equivalents. Some modern finishes were originally developed to coat rock crushing drill bits. I’m thinking that if it can drill through rock, your holster probably isn’t a major issue.
It’s more often the dirt that accumulates in a holster than the holster itself that causes wear and tear, especially in a modern holster. Keep the particulates cleaned out and you shouldn’t have much issue.
This design of holster simply does not cause holster wear under normal circumstances. I can say this with certainty, because I kept a Smith & Wesson M&P40 full sized gun in one of these holsters, for five years solid. No holster wear, no rust.
Let me expound on that. I had a S&W M&P40 (first gen) in one of these holsters. For five years. Continuous. The gun only came out to show people the finish, and to demonstrate how it worked.
On a related note, if you get this holster dirty, it’s very easy to clean. Just take it to the sink, rinse it lightly, a little dish soap and scrub, rinse it lightly again, and dry it. Ready to roll.
Alternatively, at the gun shows, if they got too much skin oil, hand lotion, or whatever on them, I just grabbed an alcohol prep pad and wiped them down.
I just wanted to take a moment to recommend a couple of friends of mine, the people that run Camille Conceals Concealed Carry Purses. Based out of Colorado, they produce some very nice and innovative Women’s concealed carry products.
I don’t carry concealed carry purses for sale, for a very simple reason. I found out long ago, that I just don’t have any sense of style, at least when it comes to women’s accessories.
The conventional wisdom regarding off-body carry of a concealed weapon is usually “don’t do that”. In principle, I agree with that. However, lets be honest here, womens clothing was not made for concealment in general. As a result, sometimes a purse carry is the only real option available for many people.
If you have to go that way, you might as well make the most of it.
Camille Conceals is a husband and wife team out of Colorado. They work the gun show circuit, same as I do, and they really do go the extra mile to make good products for their customers.
There are plenty of people out there selling other peoples products. Heck, I’m one of those myself. Camille Conceals actually builds their own products for sale. The Grip Hugger holster that I sell at the gun shows, comes from them, for example.
If you are wanting to try out purse carry, it’s worth your time to have a look at Camille Conceals and their line of concealed carry purses.
Strong leather gun belts can really improve your ability to conceal carry. One thing that I see over and over at the shows, is people trying to find a holster (especially an OWB or “Outside the Waistband” holster) that they can just “clip on” and use, because they don’t like to wear a belt. I have to tell them that I don’t have a good concealment holster that does that, and the IWB’s (or “Inside the Waistband”) that are clipped work better with a belt on, preferably a strong one.
Why is this? Well, it’s not too hard to figure out. Guns have a good amount of mass and weight, even the smaller ones. The more mass and weight you hang on your pants, the more problematic they are going to be to control. A good belt such as a reinforced gun belt or a thick leather belt not only helps to distribute that mass and weight around a bit more, but it helps to prevent unwanted movement, both of the holster and weapon, and of of the pants.
Belts that are suitable for holster work tend to fit into one of three broad categories. Duty Belts such as what you see police working with. “Reinforced belts” that are multiple layers of thin leather with materials inserted into them such as kydex or steel. Thick leather belts that rely on their overall thickness of material to provide the necessary support.
Duty Belts are usually not something that the average person will be getting. They tend to be wider than usual (up to 2″ or more, and a lot of them are expensive. And, of course, their appearance can be a bit obvious even to an untrained observer.
Many people end up with various types of reinforced belts. For this example, a reinforced belt typically is two pieces of thin leather with a metal or kydex “stiffener” between them. There are many examples of various reinforced belts out there. Most tend to be on the pricier side of the market.
I sell this type of gun belt at the gun shows. With a well constructed thick leather belt, you have one solid piece of leather. Any sewing on them is strictly for show.
A typical dress belt is not constructed with enough strength to be able to withstand the stress than a gun holster will put on it. As a result, I do not recommend that you use a typical dress belt for gun duty in any capacity.
The Strong leather belts that I sell at the gun shows are one piece of cowhide leather, 1 1/2 inches wide. They use stainless roller buckle hardware, with stainless chicago screws.
These strong leather gun belts are longer than a typical dress belt of the same marked size. A normal dress belt measures from the start of the leather, to the middle hole punched in it. The strong leather belts that I carry at the gun shows, measure from the start of the leather, to the first punched hole.
This makes them four inches longer than a typical dress belt of the same size. Normally when you are buying a gun belt, you add a few inches to accommodate your holster. This belt already has that accomodation built in.
The people that make the strong leather gun belts that I sell at the gun shows, have added a new line, and I am just now starting to carry it. It’s a Dress Belt, but it’s made with the same attention to detail that the strong leather gun belts are made with.
The new Dress belts are made from Water Buffalo. They are 1 1/4 inch wide. Rather than the roller buckles used on the strong leather gun belts, these use more traditional hardware. Chicago Screws are used, same as the strong leather gun belts, but these are black.
And most importantly, they have the same “extra length” that the strong leather gun belts have. As a result, they are four inches longer than a typical dress belt of the same sizing.
Take a belt in your hand. Place your thumb and index finger on the top edge and bottom edge of the belt, and try to push them together. If you can do this easily, this probably won’t make a good holster belt for you. If you can’t push them together easily, you probably will do OK.
Be sure to apply the “squeeze test” liberally. My experience has been that most belts are more about fashion appeal than practical use. Many of them are just not strong enough to actually help out in this situation.
All three of the belt types discussed should pass the pinch test with flying colors. The thick leather belts that I sell at the gun shows pass this test with ease.
Bear in mind, that these tips at most helpful when you are carrying waistline or below. IWB (Inside the waist), OWB (outside the waist), pocket holster (Yeah, it helps a little), and even ankle holster (keeps your pants in the right place). If you are carrying above the waist, such as a belly band, Packin’ Tee t-shirt, or a shoulder holster, then a strong belt system isn’t important for your carry ability, although it’s still not a bad idea in general.
Return to Concealed Carry Tips
Return to Holster Types
There are lots and lots of holster styles out there. A lot of first time carriers will gravitate towards the lower end of the price spectrum first. That tends to be a Nylon IWB Holster. Lets face it, who wants to spend a hundred bucks on something that turns out to suck rocks?
One of the most basic holster designs for concealed carry work is the Nylon IWB Holster. These are usually inexpensive and offer an option for those first getting started. Some people will stay with this style, most will eventually find something more suitable.
This holster is ambidextrous, in that you can move the mounting clip to either side. It comes from the factory set up to go “right handed”. You can move the clip from that position to the other side, allowing left handed use. You can do this with simple tools, such as a tongue depressor. I use a “tactical butterknife” that I keep in my tool kit at the shows.
This design does not need a good gun belt to operate. However, I strongly recommend a good gun belt for any waist mounted holster, inside or outside. The better the belt, the better your experience will be.
This holster design actually has a crude form of retention on it, the strap going up over the top is actually two strips of Velcro that attach together. You put the gun in, you press the Velcro closed over it. When you need to draw the gun, you simply pull the gun quickly out of the holster. This separates the Velcro and releases the gun.
The Velcro strip, as it comes from the factory, is a bit long. This needs to be adjusted before use. By adjusted, I mean trimmed down short enough to not be so much of an annoyance while carrying, while still long enough to hold the gun in place when you aren’t trying to draw it.
The metal clip on this holster isn’t especially tight. If you aren’t wearing it on a belt, especially if you don’t trim up the retention strap, you may draw the entire rig (gun and holster) when you attempt to draw the gun. This is not a good thing. You should take the time to adjust the length of the retention strap before you actually use it. Be sure to practice drawing (with an unloaded gun for safety in this instance) until you are confident that you have the right adjustment.
Please don’t try to just trim it short right off the bat, as you can’t “cut it longer” if you get too short.
The Nylon IWB Holster are inexpensive compared to many options. Price can vary wildly depending on manufacturer.
Ambidextrous design means you don’t have to buy another one to, say, try out Small of Back carry. You just move the clip to the other side and give it a try.
It’s not as “picky” as many holster designs are, in that one size can fit a number of different guns. However, you will still want to pay attention and get the correct size.
This is by no means a “buy it for life” type option. A holster like this is going to have a limited lifespan.
Materials like this can become “broken in” and softer. If the opening of the holster is feeling “soft” or malleable, you need to be careful with it in use. A broken in / soft holster can bow inwards upon insertion of the gun. In Extreme cases, this can cause an accidental discharge of the gun. You should always pay close attention when holstering your weapon.
Back to Holster Types